THE TOUR: Day 4 - Namib-Naukluft National Park

July 4th. Wessel woke us up at 5 am. Lovely... The reason for the early morning (actually we had two kinds of morning on the tour - early morning and very early morning; the very early one was when we had to wake up before 6 am, early morning - between 6 and 8 am) was rather prosaic - 9 hours of driving to the next campsite ahead of us. Oh yeah :) Well, the truth is - we could sleep on the truck (and we did) so it wasn't that bad if you weren't Jan, the driver. And we weren't. :)

I remember stopping at a village that is supposed to have the best biltong ever. Biltong is dried meat, very popular in South Africa and Namibia as well. I'm not a big fan of biltong so I didn't even try it, but Jirka did and didn't like it. And as they make it also from springbok meat, every time we saw a springbok, since then, someone said "Look, biltong!" Very funny, isn't it? :)

And we saw some wildlife on the way to the campsite - ostriches, springboks, kudus, antilopes... But no big five, no elephants... It was good anyway, the beginnings are like this: you're excited when you see a springbok. Then you see one thousand of them and you just don't care anymore... This happens with zebras and giraffes too. However, elephants have their spirit and you kind of enjoy them always, but you just don't want to take pictures of them anymore. :) But that all I learned only later, the Day 4 was still far away from the game drives that were going to happen.

Ok, what else... Not according to the plan, but we stopped at a place where cheeatahs and leopards are held in captivity. It isn't really like a zoo, it's just for these cats and the area is much bigger. They're kept there, generally, because they wouldn't be able to survive in the wilderness. And they were actually the only cheetahs and leopards we saw in Africa (it isn't easy to see these cats).

Up: cheetah, right: leopard.

After some more long hours in the truck, we got to the campsite where we pitched the tents on the sand (well, it really always makes sense, on a place like this, to take a shower to get rid of the sand :)). Then we got back on the truck and drove to Sesriem Canyon to watch the sunset. It wasn't as good as the previous day but it was good enough.

The Sesriem Canyon

And that was it. I think the next step was driving back to the camp where Wessel already prepared another of his wonderful meals for us and with full stomachs, we went to the tents to get some good-night sandy sleep.

Day 3 - Pictures

Morning South African Style

South African Breakfast :)

Yes, that's a light :)

One of the funny trees in the middle of nowhere

Namibian roads

A bird watching the Fishriver Canyon

Fishriver Canyon (and our truck)

Fishriver Canyon, beautiful Namibia

That's one of our coolest sunset pictures :)

Romantic sunset

THE TOUR: Day 3 - Namibia: Orange Gariep River and Fishriver Canyon - sand and stars

Fortunately, Susan went on the tour before us and told us what we should and shouldn't do. Thus we knew that the canoe trip wasn't worth the money and instead we spent the morning doing nothing at the beautiful camp at the river. Also, we could sleep much longer as we didn't have to get up at 6 am. :) I liked that. :)

So the morning activity for us was none. Before twelve, the people who went on the canoe trip got back and some of them were very disappointed (so here comes a big "thank you" to Susan :)). After lunch, we crossed the South African/Namibian border (and for the first time filled in the little form that we were going to fill in about hundred times :)). We entered Namibia for the first time and saw what a wonderful country it is - almost no people, beautiful nature, mountaints, sand, dunes, a funny tree in the middle of nothing from time to time...

Well, talking about the sand - after a few days in Namibia, it was everywhere. We pitched our tents, got in - there was sand inside, we opened our backpacks - there was sand inside, we got on the truck - sand, mugs - sand, sand, sand... What happens after spending a few days in a country with so much sand is this: your skin gets so dry that even if you were using a moisturizer 10 times a day, it wouldn't help. What happens when you live in sand and, moreover, you're alergic to everything, is something I'd rather forget. Day 3 was the first day I realized that it was going to be hard. I felt terrible and I started to take my allergy pills every single day, even though I usually don't do it. Did it help? Sometimes (and then - was it the pills that helped, or would it be just the same without them? :)) Later, I was told by a Namibian girl, that people in that part of Namibia get old really quickly. Or better - their skin is just so dry that they look much older than they really are. But the country is so beautiful that it is, maybe, worth it. :)

And, of course, we visited "a place of interest". :) We went to the Fishriver Canyon to watch the sunset there. Fishriver Canyon is the oldest and the second biggest canyon in the world. The oldest parts of the canyon are 2600 millions years old! Wow! And we were there! :) We were there, as you know, in July, and thus the rain season was over for a long time already. The Fish River (the longest river in Namibia) was dry. And here's something very interesting too - there are fish (called catfish) that can survive under the ground! They just "dig" themselves there and wait until the water comes again. Cool, eh? :)

We watched the sunset there and took some of the nicest sunset pictures (as we watched sunset almost every day, it gets pretty boring, haha :)) and we saw something I had never seen before. The Namibian sky... I can't explain how amazing that is. You can actually see all the stars! Here, in Europe, you'll never be able to see what you get to see at places like that... As there are almost no people around, there is no light pollution and I can tell you that when they turned off the lights of the truck, the view was simply breathtaking...

Well, after we had enough of the stars (can you actually ever have enough?), we went back to the camp (I don't know the name of the camp). And as we had had dinner already at the Canyon, it was just shower time, socializing time (which we didn't use much :)) and sleeping time. But that was the first day when I was sure that the tour was worth all the waking up and stuff like that. The Fishriver Canyon and the stars were the first highlight of the tour.

PS: Also, I learned a word that I was going to hear almost every day. As Wessel (our guide, to be talked about later :)) always said, before we went to watch a sunset: "Get some beers for the sundowner." Ok, I was confused... What the hell does he mean? Sundowner? Isn't that supposed to be the drink that you drink while watching sunset (or the sun going down :))? So we should take drinks for the drinks? What?? Jill explained that to me... She said that Wessel's use of English wasn't very good. :) So yes - sundowner is supposed to be the drink if you want to know the truth. :)
And one more thing I want to tell you. It isn't from my own head though, and you'll see that it actually even can't be. I've never been to Argentina (yet :)) so I couldn't know. But Geral told me that you can actually see millions of stars in Argentina too! Ok, guys, when are we going there? :)

Day 2 - Pictures

Nomad Tents

The border between South Africa and Namibia - Orange/Gariep River

Me at the border, that was a lovely day!

Jirka and "his" truck :)

THE TOUR: Day 2 - Orange/Gariep River and "Ek kry coud" :)

Our first night in the tent was freezing. There is no adverb that would appropriately describe how much it was freezing. I'll just tell you this: I didn't sleep all night (well, I guess I fell asleep a couple of times as I had nightmares :)) and then, in the morning, my feet were numb for about two more hours...

The goal of the day was to get to the Fiddlers Creek Camp which was just next to the Orange/Gariep River (I believe one of the names is South African and one is Namibian). The river is also the border between Namibia and South Africa. But first we stopped at Springbok where all of us bought warm (and cheap) blankets. That shop must have earned a lot of money from selling those blankets as it seems that every (winter) Nomad tour stops there.

The way to Fiddlers Creek Camp was interesting. There was nothing for hours as we were going through the north of South Africa. Wonderful!

Well, not much more really happened. We got to the camp (being still on the South African bank of the river) and it was so cool! It was one of the best camps we stayed at! It had very nice showers and just the nature around and everything was so beautiful that Jill never wanted to leave. :) For the rest of the day, we just relaxed by the river and enjoyed the scenery...

Later in the evening, we were trying to socialize around the campfire (well, I think we stayed there mainly because it was so nice and warm there and we were afraid that it would be freezing again inside the tents :)). But it was funny. And I still wasn't able to remember all the names. Two days isn't enough for a person with the kind of brain I have. :)

PS: This is off-topic but some of you might want to know... Daisy - my dog - seems to be recovering well after the surgery. But we still have to go to the vet tomorrow (we've been there every single day since last Saturday, except for Sunday as there was nobody there then). She's still tired and probably sore but hopefully she's gonna be fine. I know you like to hear that. :)

Day 1 - Pictures

I'm not going to put here all my pictures. There are more than 1000 of them and I'd die before it would be uploaded. :) I'll put some here and later some more on the sonyimagestation.com as always. Is that ok with you, guys? :) I hope it is because that is the way it is going to be. :) So enjoy the first few...

Table Mountain (there I found out where they take the pictures from for all the postcards :))

One of the beautiful faces of South Africa

Skoki and his two snakes :) (You can't see the dreadlocks yet :))

Skoki trying to find a spitting cobra (and I'm happy he didn't find it :))

Skoki and some ants (he was looking for something big so he was searching every bigger stone :)). Here you can really see his dreadlock, cool, eh? :)

THE TOUR: Day 1 - Cederberg Mountain Region and Skoki

It was July 1. We woke up early, had some breakfast, put our heavy backpacks on our backs (Jill her bag in her hand) and went to the Nomad office. Here we saw the truck, our guides and pretty much all the people we were going to spend the next 21 days with.
We signed some forms, had some coffee, Jirka told them he isn't a female and at about 8:30, we were already on the truck, the adventures ahead of us.

The people on the tour were mostly German and Dutch, some English, Swiss and us (meaning me, Jirka and Jill). In general, I didn't like the German much. Especially their need to be the first everywhere and some other annoying things. Well, the German couples were not cool at all. :) I liked the English and the Swiss, Rolf - the father of the Swiss family - was a very funny guy who entertained us a lot. :)

As on every real guided tour, we did some picture-taking stops (you know that - "ok, here's a nice spot, you can leave the truck, take a picture and get back" :) I don't think I like feeling as a tourist that much but we got some nice pics :).

Our first camp site was the Geckos Lodge. It was a nice place surrounded by orange farms and thus with free oranges at the bar. :) We pitched our tents and took the mattresses outside to lie in the sun for a while. And had lunch, of course. The programme for the day was a "guided walk with a local expert". So we were waiting. The local expert was late, just like a right South African ("he's gonna be here just now" :)), but I can tell you - the waiting was worth it.
When Skoki came, I knew I'd like the walk. :) Skoki is a guy who has been living in the Cederberg area since he was born and thus he knows it very well, all the animals, all the plants, everything. He had wonderful dreadlocks (first, he had a hat to hide them :)) and in general he was very interesting. He came and said that he found something on his way to the camp that he'd like to show us. But he had nothing in his hands... He reached his pockets with both his hands and thus we could see he had two snakes in one pocket and a scorpio in the other one. :) I knew I was going to love the walk! :)

Skoki showed us various kinds of plants, told us what they can be used for, and also uncovered the magic of the names local people give these plants (don't be mistaken - he knew the "real" scientific names too!). The people who live in those areas, so close to the nature, just know what they're doing. So they give plants the names that simply describe what they do. Thus we saw an 8-day-healing bush (if you're sick, tea from this bush is going to heal you in 8 days), wait-a-minute bush (that's my favourite... it's called so because when kids are running outside and know that they're supposed to be home soon and that they're going to be late, they want to take a shortcut. But there's this bush, with long thorns that get stuck in the kids' clothes. And the kids thus have to stop - wait for a minute - to get rid of it. :)), and many others. He also told us that the American fish is a big problem, no matter what he really meant. :)

After the walk, we got back to the camp, waited for dinner, and then had some "introducing" talks. We had to say our names and what we're doing and stuff but I didn't remember much as I simply don't remember names. :)

We went to "bed" early as we were quite tired and that was it for the day.

PS: The pictures are to be here soon, too, definitely before any other new post :).

Rooibos Tea and Ticklemouse Rusks

When I was making myself a cup of tea yesterday, I realized how I miss drinking rooibos tea, the real South African "red-bush" tea! Of course I can get it here, but would it be the same? And could I also get rusks here? No, I can't... And if yes, they would definitely not be the right ones, the Ticklemouse rusks. So I'm not going to drink rooibos tea until I get to South Africa again. :) Or maybe I will, just to remember the good times. :)

PS: Did you know that rooibos is South African tea? I hadn't before I got there. But I had drunk it before. And now, when I know, the magic of rooibos tea is forever ruined for me at a place other than SA. :)

Going to the forest, taking our dog...

It was Saturday and my dad wanted to go to the forest to see if we can find some mushrooms. So we went. But I insisted on taking our dog Daisy (Siberian Husky). So we did. It was me, my dad, my nieces and the dog. She's been very lazy lately and I think she just need some exercise. Anyway, we got there, she was running around and everything was fine. Until we got to the forest - the way there is up and up and up... She ran up and then disappeared suddenly. We didn't know where she went and at the end, the result was this: we didn't find too many mushrooms and we lost one dog...
Well, we decided to go back to the car first and then go to look for her. When we were getting closer to the car, she was running to greet us - she spent all the time, probably sleeping, in front of the car and waiting for us...
And thus we know that our dog is very very lazy, but at least she isn't stupid. :) And we actually found some mushrooms and had great mushroom soup. :)

PS: I know I promised some stories from the Tour. And I'll do it! I'm just struggling with putting photos on DVD so that people can actually watch them. If you know about a good programme to do that, let me know. :) Seriously - have you ever tried to watch hundreds of photos in one evening? Nobody can survive that. I need to divide them in chapters or something, but at the same time, I want them to be on one DVD. But the Tour will come soon!

Barbora (by Jill Smith)

Ok, Jill agreed with that therefore I have to do it. This poem is so good that it should be published, at least here. :)

Barbora
(by: Jill Smith)

When I arrived in Stellenbosch,
I was all alone.
I had no friends and no airtime;
Nothing to call my own.

Concordia was hot and empty;
How many thoughts did rove!
'How can I spend six months here
If I can't even work the stove?'

I spent two days there by myself,
And let my doubts unfurl:
My lonely future, my abandoned past...
And then I met a girl.

She had hair of gold and eyes of blue -
A political science whiz.
And she was from the Czech Republic,
Wherever the hell that is.

Dark as my heart was, I thought
I didn't stand a chance
To be the BFF of a girl
Who wears such colorful pants.

But somewhere in the depths of souls,
A violent hunger thrives:
I knew that if I gave her food,
Our friendship might survive.

And so the months trundled past;
In A320 there bloomed
The flowers of beautiful friendship,
And a fungal colony in Joy's room!

From Cape Point to Boulders Beach,
To Hermanus' freezing seas;
Crammed into too-small cars,
Listening to love ballads with Waleed.

From baboons to soccer-playing dogs,
From big trees to caves to bays;
To witnessing the butchering
Of one of Shakespeare's greatest plays,

From Screaming Guy to Gregory;
From Mexico to Emmanuel;
And martyr-ly Marissa,
Who tells kids to go to Hell,

From small and slack-jawed Emily,
And Lydia; to Tyrone;
And Geraldine, who crossed the street,
And didn't have a phone.

From chocolate to late-night Lost;
Very few people can boast
That they are still alive and well
After consuming eight pieces of toast.

These are the memories I will cherish -
Sunday trips to Spar;
Watching Marvin refuse to accept
That you are not beskikbaar.

Afrikaans and freezing rooms -
There are many things I'll miss
But nothing I'll miss quite as much
As the bathrooms at the International Office.

I'll miss the mists of Victoria Falls
And the stars of the Namib skies,
And the sound of Wessel's dulcet voice
Saying, 'Okay guys...'

Alas, it's time to go home now;
All things have their ends.
I guess there's nothing left to say,
Except... (punch) 'No friends.'

So this is a poem written by Jill for me. I told her to do so and it took her months but I think it was worth it. :) And if I never again post anything about Africa here, it wouldn't matter because Jill just said it all. :) Thank you, Jill!